Almonaster la Real

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One of the most beautiful villages in Spain and an ideal location for a visit or off-grid living

One of the oldest towns in Spain, Almonaster la Real (located in SW Andalucia, near the border with Portugal), is not only unspoilt and beautiful but comes with an unbeatable local atmosphere, like being part of one big family, calm and unhurried.  Visitors and incomers are automatically made welcome.

Currently there are about 800 people living permanently in and around the town.  At weekends, and during the numerous public holidays, this increases as family members return.  Most days there are tourists, drawn either by the authentic Moorish architecture (including allegedly the oldest mosque in Spain), or setting out on one of the numerous (guided if required) walking/ mountain bike/ horse riding routes touring the seemingly endless surrounding countryside. Or they simply go searching for mushrooms and sweet chestnuts, which are prolific here.

The facilities available are therefore developed to cater for a wide range of needs. Including:

● a TOURIST OFFICE (click here to visit their website), where most of the staff speak several languages including english, located opposite CASA GARCIA.

● small nursery/ primary/ secondary school  ● alternative school (15 kms away)  ● sports centre  ● health centre  ● outdoor swimming pool  ● library  ● grocery shops  ● bakery  ● restaurants  ● bars  ● ATM  ● post office  ● social services office  ● chemist  ● wi-fi  ● builders merchants  ● car mechanic/ workshop  ● all the building trades  ● alternative medical practitioners  ● hotels & hostal & self-catering accommodation  ● three campervan parking sites ● campsite (in nearby Cortegana)  ● a small weekly market (Tuesday morning) ● taxis  ● daily bus service to Sevilla and Portugal  ● town hall  ● bodega (under construction)

Within 30 minutes’ drive is everything else, for resident and tourist alike.

The nearest petrol station (which also sells bottled gas, also available in the builders merchant in town) and large supermarket (Mercadona) is in Cortegana (8kms). Aracena (25 kms) has a Mercadona and Lidl supermarket.

Sevilla (airport/ AVE train) is 120kms (72 miles) away.  The beach 140kms (84 miles).  Portugal 45kms (27 miles).

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The best way to get a proper feel for this unique place is to spend a few minutes watching a recent national television programme about it (featuring yours truly).  Okay it’s all in Spanish, but don’t worry very easy to follow:

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… there is also a really great MICRO MUSEUM worth visiting, run by my good friend Carlos, you can find this located along the path around the mosque (see map below) …

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ANNUAL FESTIVALS

CRUCES DE MAYO 5-9 May

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ROMERIA DE SANTA EULALIA 19-21 May

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ALMONASTER LOCAL FIESTA 2nd week of August

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CULTURAL WEEK end of August

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ISLAMICAS  2nd week of October

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ONE-OFF FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The area outside Bar/ delicatessen ABERCERIA IBERGANDULLO is used to host all sorts of events including marathons/ bike racing/ dancing and food markets. Here are some photos from the Sierra Madre Tierra event, which showcased local organic producers:

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OUTDOOR PURSUITS

The Sierra has a vast array of adventure options to offer, of which particular to Almonaster la Real are the opportunity to explore the hundreds of kilometres of forestry trails.  Perfect for hikers, mountain bikers (you can bring your own or hire a brand spanking new electric one from e-bikearacena)

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Horse riding at the Picadero la Suerte.

and Finca el Moro

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OTHER ACTIVITIES

There are plenty of things to do/ see/ and get involved with.  One I particularly enjoyed was being part of the street choir.

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GETTING HERE

From FARO airport (in Portugal) there are very cheap flights from the UK and other EU countries (as low as 24 euros return), however there is no direct public transport link here, so you really need to hire a car, and it is about a 3hr drive (220km).

From SEVILLA (120 km) there is a bus to Almonaster la Real, but only TWO a day, one at 9:30 and the other at 16:00.  From the airport to the Plaza de Armas bus station, it’s a 10 km (35 minutes) bus ride (4 euros), then you buy a ticket (at the DAMUS bus company window) for ALMONASTER LA REAL (about 12 euros), remembering to change buses at the ARACENA bus-station.

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WEATHER

can be checked by clicking here, though it is most reliable only for the next two days.

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I made this in 2018, so it might not be totally up to date by now, but better than nothing.  It can be downloaded by clicking here.

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EATING OUT

In a bar/ restaurant there are basically three options.  Tapas (small plates of one thing, at around 2-3 euros each), which are very cheap and usually of sufficient quantity for two to fill you up.  Cold and hot.  Montadito, which is like a tapa, but with bread and usually heated.  Courses (raciones/ platos), which can turn out very expensive indeed, typically three courses setting you back 30+ euros a head.  Bars serve tapas and montaditos all year round, but restaurants restrict them to the bar area and outside in good weather, from around 1pm until 2pm and 8.30pm onwards.

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WHAT TO SEE

Almonaster la Real is a very old settlement, people have lived here continuously since pagan times.  Thankfully much of the past has been retained and maintained, which means walking around the streets is just like going back in time.  Most of the houses inside are like this too.  The church/ mesquita at the top of the hill gives a really good idea of all the different historical periods.  The church in the town also has been lovingly restored.

There are two other chapels also.  Plus, a communal fountain/ spring and washing area.

Outside the town and you are immediately into the countryside, with many circular routes and others heading off to towns nearby, mostly forestry tracks.  The Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park stretches for 184,000 hectares, most of it is forested hills and mountains.

This part of Spain, being one of the lowest populated and least unspoilt regions, is in many respects pretty much unchanged from the days not so long ago when there were no roads, and the only way of life was a rural self-sufficient one.  Still there exists a vast array of diverse plant and wildlife.  Including 189 types of bird (for example: eagles/ hawks/ vultures/ peregrine falcon/ osprey/ kite/ kestrel/ owls/ and griffin).  As well as the more usual other creatures: frog/ toad/ newt/ dragonfly/ butterfly/ salamander/ lizard/ otters/ snakes/ mongoose/ wild boar/ deer/ goats/ cattle/ pigs/ beech martens/ polecats/ genets/ weasels/ badgers/ bats/ wild sheep…..  From the top of nearby peak San Cristobal, you can see a 360 degree panorama that stretches as far as the coast (on a clear day) and Portugal.

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Bar/ restaurant MIGUEL TENORIO

Personally, I think this is the best bar in town, however it is only open at certain times (check with their Facebook page, below).  It is also the hardest one to find, even though located right in the middle of town.  Their address: is Calle Los Naranjos, 3.  If you are in the small square and facing the Panaderia then it is the road down the right side of that.  At the bottom of the road is Tovar mini supermarket.  The menu is in english and french, as well as spanish, and reasonably priced.  The staff are ultra-friendly and helpful. https://www.facebook.com/mesonrestaurante.migueltenorio/

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Bar/ restaurant EL RINCÓN DEL CURRO

Everyone else says this is the best restaurant in the area.  I haven’t been, so can’t comment.  It is pricey though.  They do have a menu totally in english, and wi-fi.  https://www.facebook.com/El-Rincón-de-Curro-615935528454387/

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THE MCINNES ENGLISH LIBRARY & MAIN LOCAL LIBRARY

The English part was bequeathed by a former resident, then added to by other english residents.  It has now been combined with the main library.  Open weekday evenings.

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café AL ANDALUS

A good place to sit out and enjoy the view.

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Bar/ delicatessen ABERCERIA IBERGANDULLO

This establishment has opened last year, next door to AL ANDALUZ.

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HOTEL LUZ

A recent conversion from a house into a small boutique hotel with rooms at very reasonable rates, including a good breakfast.  I have to recommend this as the place to stay because my friends Ishmael and Virginia do all the hard work there. It is literally opposite the church, the bells every half hour throughout the night can be a surprise.

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LAS PALMERAS

Small modern apartment block in good location, with everything you need for self-catering from 2 adults +.  Wi-fi.  Just not a lot of atmosphere and can be pricey, worth haggling for a deal. https://www.facebook.com/laspalmeras.alojamientorural

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Bar/ restaurant LAS PALMERAS

Opposite the holiday apartments of the same name (family).  Opening hours are variable, can be pricey, and service is often slow.

https://www.facebook.com/restaurante.laspalmeras.5

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Bar/ restaurant/ hotel CASA GARCIA

This hotel used to be the heart of Almonaster la Real and the Sierra, for over two generations.  It is currently closed, but hopefully will re-open one day.

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Holiday house CASA RURAL LA TORRE

This is a lovely place to rent for a couple of days, except for its proximity to the church and its bells, which chime every half-hour, and can be deafening.

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Bar ALMONASTER

Run by my friends Jose Manuel & Maria Jose.  Very popular with locals, especially the yummy mummy crowd between 9.15am-10.30am.  Their tapas are good and cheap, though it can be noisy when busy.  Answer: sit outside in the summer.  Wi-fi.  Closed on Wednesdays.  https://www.facebook.com/BarAlmonaster/

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Newsagents/ shop PRENSA (MANUELA)

Owner Manuela speaks excellent English (though has a hearing problem, so please speak clearly and slowly).  Sells everything imaginable (just ask and she will have it somewhere) including daily newspapers and magazines, plus all sorts of household items/ stationery/ and clothes.

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Post office OFICINA DE CORREOS

Note: ONLY open for two hours a day (8.30am-10.30am), weekdays.  Try and take the correct amount of change, they don’t usually have a float!

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Bakery/ grocery PANADERÍA

For fresh fruit & vegetables this is the best place (there is an outdoor vegetable market nearby but opening hours are erratic).  However, with only two deliveries a week (Monday & Thursday) you have to be early (10.30am ish) to get what little they order.  Their bread is not good either (Aracena is the place for that, and Portugal), while their cakes tend to be very expensive/ light on substance.

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Bar SOCIEDAD UNIÓN AMISTOSA

Known locally as THE CASINO, this is actually a bar for members, but if you visiting there is no need to join. In Cortegana there is a lovely example of these establishments (on the square), with newspapers/ magazines, wi-fi, and even dvds to borrow. They generally open earlier than ordinary bars and usually cheaper.

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Chemist FARMACIA

Next-day or 48hr delivery of most things if not in stock, including homeopathic remedies.

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Mini-supermarket TOVAR

This is an old photo, this excellent small supermarket has been totally revamped since, but I like it.  You will always get excellent service here, from its owners Evaristo & Juani.  It is also deceptively well-stocked (don’t forget to look downstairs as well).  They also sell fresh bread which is the best you’ll get locally.

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Events venue PLAZA DEL LLANES

Where most outdoor concerts and half of the annual CRUZ DE MAYO take place.

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ATM

This used to be the bank, but is now a prototype for the future, a virtual rural bank, an ATM where if necessary you can speak online with a member of staff.

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Tobacconist/ shop ESTANCO

This has to be one of the tinniest shops ever.  And it is difficult to see what they have in stock, but Maria-Jose does a little bit of everything so well-worth asking.

https://www.facebook.com/El-Estanco-De-Mª-Jose-En-Almonaster-314139502030907/

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Town hall/ AYUNTAMIENTO

Copies of the local free newspaper VIVA LA SIERRA and the monthly what’s-on guide for Sevilla, EL GIRALDILLO, are available here.  At least one of the staff speaks english.

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Bar/ restaurant MESÓN ISABEL II

The food here was always good (and some of the menu is in english), but the bar area is very claustrophobic.  They also short-changed me on several occasions, so worth checking your bill.  Vegetarians catered for.  Wi-fi.  https://www.facebook.com/restaurantealmonaster/

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Natural spring/ FUENTE DEL CONCEJO

If you don’t like the taste of the mains water, which is highly chlorinated, this is where the locals get their drinking water, just down the road from MESÓN ISABEL II.

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Bar/ restaurant/ accommodation POSADA EL CAMINO

Not exactly in town, but only a short walk away.  The bar has a very nice atmosphere, especially in winter with its massive open fireplace. Food is excellent, though pricey, but not for vegetarians.

https://www.facebook.com/Restaurante-y-Posada-El-Camino-239041952911255/

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PARKING

There are three designated areas, two on the main road, one just out of town (near POSADA EL CAMINO) which has the best views for campervans and level.  Do not attempt to find a parking spot in the town, there aren’t any.

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OPENING TIMES

Please be aware that opening hours of shops and bars here is very erratic (even the locals can’t work it out), so expect the unexpected and never run short of anything. Especially be aware of the season/ fiestas/ and local & national holidays.

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PORTUGAL

It may be 45kms away, which is about an hour’s drive, but so different to Spain (even the climate) you have to see some. I recommend SERPA, MOURA, ODEMIRA (don’t miss Beatriz’s chocolate shop), MONSARAZ and the beach at ZAMBUJEIRA DO MAR.

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…AND FINALLY

for a real taste of what it is really like to live here, these videos are a perfect way of sampling the creativity and energy.  Made by my friend Carlos, the first is a light-hearted look at the cooking of his grandparents.  In spanish, but easy to understand.  The second is, well just have a look, beyond translation.